
Kyoto, with its hundreds of temples and gardens, was the
imperial capital between 794 and 1868, and remains the cultural
centre of Japan. Its raked pebble gardens, sensuously contoured
temple roofs and mysterious Shintō shrines fulfill the Japanese
fantasy of every Western cliché hunter.
With an astonishing 1600 Buddhist temples, 400 Shintō shrines,
a trio of palaces, and dozens of gardens and museums, Kyoto
is Japan's cultural treasure house. Seventeen of Kyoto's
ancient structures and gardens have been declared UNESCO
World Heritage sites.
Kyoto is a sightseer's paradise. It is virtually a living
museum of Japan's great artistic heritage. To explore it
on foot, at least in each general area, is an intriguing
and rewarding experience that creates unforgettable memories.
Kyoto is well preserved as it was not destroyed during WWII.
Many temples and shrines are in Kyoto that are worth visiting
and it is difficult to see all of them.
Sightseeing:
Kyoto offers an incredible number of attractions for
tourists, and visitors will probably need to plan an itinerary
in advance in order to visit as many as possible.
- Daitokuji (大徳寺). A small and understated temple
complex, boasting several small, secluded sub temples.
Daitokuji is the quietest of the temples in north-western
Kyoto, and if you visit it at the start of the day,
you could virtually have it to yourself. The highlight
of the sub temples is Daisen-in, located on the northern
side of the temple complex, which has a beautiful Zen
garden without the crowds of Ryoanji Temple. Koto-in
is particularly noted for its maple trees, which are
beautiful in autumn.
- Kinkaku-ji (金閣寺). The Temple of the Golden Pavilion,
formally known as Rokuonji (鹿苑寺), is the most popular
tourist attraction in Kyoto. The pavilion was originally
built as a retirement villa for Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu
in the late 12th century, and converted into a temple
by his son. However, the pavilion was burnt down in
1950, by a young monk who had become obsessed with it.
(The story became the basis for Yukio Mishima's novel
The Temple of the Golden Pavilion.) The pavilion
was rebuilt to look even more garish than before - extending
the gold leaf covering it to the lower floor. The beautiful
landscaping and the reflection of the temple on the
face of the water make for a striking sight, but keeping
the mobs of visitors out of your photos will be a stern
test for your framing abilities (and a dilemma for your
photographic honesty). Get there early if you can to
beat the school groups. Visitors follow a path through
the moss garden surrounding the pavilion, before emerging
into a square crowded with gift shops. It's only a short
walk from Ryōan-ji , making for an easy pairing (and
study in contrasts).
- ?Hirano Shrine (平野神社). A small shrine, which is
an especially popular destination during the cherry
blossom season, setting up amusement and food stalls.
A small park of cherry trees next to the shrine is hung
with lanterns and drawings by local schoolchildren.
Sufficiently far off the tourist trail to be worth a
look. Admission is free. Nearest bus stop: Waratenjin-mae.
- Ryōan-ji (竜安寺). Famous for its Zen garden, which
is considered to be one of the most notable examples
of the "dry-landscape" style. Surrounded by low walls,
an austere arrangement of fifteen rocks sits on a bed
of white gravel. That's it: no trees, no hills, no ponds,
and no trickling water. Behind the simple temple that
overlooks the rock garden is a stone washbasin called
Tsukubai said to have been contributed by Tokugawa Mitsukuni
in the 17th century. It bears a simple but profound
four-character inscription: "I learn only to be contented".
There is a fantastic boiled tofu (湯豆腐 yudōfu) restaurant
on the grounds, which you should be able to find by
following the route away from the rock garden and towards
the exit. It is slightly expensive, but serves delicious,
traditional tofu dishes. The rest of the grounds are
worth a look too - particularly the large pond.
- Ninnaji (仁和寺). Another large temple complex which
is often overlooked by tourists. Admission to the grounds
is free, allowing visitors to view the 17th century
five-storey pagoda, and the plantation of dwarf cherry
trees. However, visitors shouldn't miss the temple itself,
and features some beautifully painted screen walls,
and a beautiful walled garden. In the hills behind the
temple, there is a delightful miniature version of the
renowned 88 Temple Pilgrimage in Shikoku, which takes
an hour or two (rather than a month or two). This can
provide a delightful end to a day of looking at tourist
attractions.
- Jingoji (神護寺). An overlooked gem among Kyoto temples,
it is an ideal place to visit for those wanting to escape
the tourist hordes. It is located in Mt. Takao in the
north-western corner of Kyoto. In front of Kyoto Station,
take JR Bus bound for Takao/Keihoku and get off at Yamashiro
Takao Station (free with JR Pass), walk down a flight
of winding stairs, cross a small bridge, and walk up
for about ten minutes. Make sure you walk all the way
to the back of the temple ground to a commanding view
of the Kiyotaki River below wedged between two hills;
here you can buy clay disks, which you throw down the
mountain after making a wish. The temple is especially
lovely in the fall, when the leaves all turn colors
- The Arashiyama (嵐山) area to the west of the city
is dismissed in most Western guidebooks in a brief paragraph
suggesting "other attractions". However, the area is
rightfully very popular with Japanese tourists, and
is well worth a visit. To get here, take the JR Sagunto
line from Kyoto station to Saga Arashiyama, or take
the Hankyu Line from the city center to Katsura, and
change to the Hankyu Arashiyama Line.
- The walk through a forest of bamboo to Nonomiya
Shrine and Okochi Sanso (a traditional house, previously
occupied by a Japanese silent screen legend), is a real
highlight of a visit to Kyoto.
- Feeding the macaque monkeys atop the mountain in
Iwatayama Monkey Park, to the south of the river, is
worth the entrance fee (and the demanding climb!). Don't
bring food up with you, though - peanuts are on sale
inside the shack on top of the mountains, and the monkeys
are well aware of it. There's a pond next to the shack,
and the monkeys seem particularly fond of the keeper's
motorcycle, which is usually parked there. There's ¥500
admission fee to enter the park; peanuts cost extra,
but you know the monkeys appreciate it.
- Just outside Saga Arashiyama station is the 19th
Century Hall - a museum covering the unlikely combination
of steam locomotives and pianos. Probably best to look
at it from the outside, and listen to the amusing tinny
music it blasts out.
- The picture-esque Togetsukyo Bridge spans the Hozu
River, which usually has at least a bit of water in
it. If you're interested in a cruise down the river,
you won't have to look far - small and large boats,
both rowed and motored, are waiting on either side of
the river. Be sure to confirm how far and how long the
trip goes, though.
- Tenryu-ji is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the
main temple of the Rinzai sect of Buddhism in Kyoto;
it's also considered one of Kyoto's Five Great Zen Temples.
Tenryu-ji was founded in 1334, but the current buildings
all date from the last century - pleasant, but unremarkable.
However, there is a lovely garden and pond, designed
by the Zen master Musō Soseki, which is worth a look.
The main gate is just beyond the busy intersection with
the Togestu-kyo Bridge.
- Otagi Nenbutsu-ji (愛宕念仏寺) is omitted from virtually
all guidebooks, but it's one of the true unknown gems
of Kyoto. It was founded in the eighth century, and
went through an unlucky patch for a millennium or so;
by turns it was destroyed by flood, fire and typhoon,
and had to move location a few times. Today, it sits
a short distance from the end of Saga Toriimoto, one
of Kyoto's three historic preservation districts. Two
fierce statues guard the entrance. Once you're through
the gate, though, you'll find over 1200 small (knee-to-waist
high) statues, each with its own unique character -
you'll see a cheerful boxer near the entrance, but you
could spend hours checking out the rest, and you'll
do it in relative seclusion, since this is well away
from the tourist trail. The statues were carved in 1981
by amateurs under the direction of master sculptor Kocho
Nishimura. Moss and forest have begun to reclaim the
area, and if you've ever wondered what Angkor Wat would
look like crossed with Japanese kawaii, this
is your chance
- Nijō Castle (二条城). Certainly one of the highlights
of Kyoto. The series of ornately-decorated reception
rooms within the Ninomaru complex is particularly impressive
and known for its "nightingale floors" - wooden flooring
which makes bird-like squeaking sounds when stepped
on. From the donjon of the inner castle, you can get
good views over the castle layout, and the rest of the
city.
- The Imperial Park is a large, peaceful area in the
centre of Kyoto, centered on the Imperial Palace. The
Palace itself is only open to visitors on pre-booked
guided tours - English tours take place at 10am and
2pm Monday-Friday, and bookings must be made at the
Imperial Household Agency, located to the west of the
palace complex. The Palace is a reconstruction, though,
and the Emperor doesn't actually spend much time there;
don't consider it a priority. However, if you're in
Kyoto for an extended amount of time, the park can make
for a very pleasant afternoon, and it's large enough
to let you forget the noise of the city outside the
walls. Its home to 50,000 trees, including cherry, plum
and peach tree orchards.
- The Museum of Kyoto is particularly worthwhile if
you have a burning interest in ancient pottery, otherwise
not really worth a visit.
- Higashi and Nishi Honganji Temple are currently
under construction, which is expected to be completed
in 2008. The majestic main hall of Higashi Honganji,
said to be the largest wooden structure in the world,
can accommodate up to 5,000 people and is the head quarter
of the Shinju Sect of Buddhism.
- ?Toji Temple is an oasis of calm near central Kyoto.
Its pagoda is the tallest wooden structure in Japan.
There are also flea markets at various times of the
month.
- Kyoto Tower, just north of Kyoto Station. A sightseeing
tower that provides views of Kyoto's urban sprawl.
Some of the most picturesque parts of Kyoto
are located in the eastern region of the city, across the
Kamo River. Visiting the main tourist attractions of eastern
Kyoto will fill a full day - a suggested itinerary is to
work north from Kiyomizu-dera to Ginkakuji, passing through
Gion, and visiting Yasaka Shrine and Nanzenji before following
the Philosopher's Walk to Ginkakuji.
- Kiyomizu-dera (清水寺). This temple complex, with a
spectacular location overlooking the city, is a deservedly
popular attraction, approached by either of two tourist-filled
souvenir-shop-lined streets, Kiyomizu-zaka or Chawan-zaka.
- Jishu-jinja, the love-themed shrine selling countless
charms to help you snag the one you love, and featuring
two "love stones" positioned around 18m apart which
the lovelorn must walk between with eyes closed to confirm
their loved one's affection, and
- Otowa-no-taki the temple's waterfall, which
gives it its name (Kiyomizu literally means 'pure
water'). Visitors stand beneath the waterfall, and
collect water to drink by holding out little tin
cups.
- Mountain hike If you're up
for a mountain walk, steer to the right-hand pathway
instead of taking the left toward the Jishu-jinja.
The path leads through a gate and winds up onto
the mountain. You can walk up for a good hour and
not reach the end of the path. Has lovely forest
and great scenery, and makes for a nice short excursion
out of the city traffic.
- Gion district (祇園). The flagstone-paved streets
and traditional buildings of the Gion district, located
to the north-west of Kiyomizu, are where you're most
likely to see geisha in Kyoto, scurrying between buildings
or slipping into a taxi. The area just to the north
of Shijo-dori, to the west of Yasaka Shrine, is particularly
photogenic - particularly around Shinbashi-dori and
Hanami-koji. Sannen-zaka ("three-year-slope") and Ninen-zaka
("two-year-slope"), two stepped streets leading off
from Kiyomizu-zaka, are also very picturesque - but
watch your step, slipping over on these streets brings
three or two years' bad luck respectively. At the northern
end of Ninen-zaka is Ryozen Kannon, a memorial to the
unknown Japanese soldiers who died in World War II,
with a 24-meter-tall statue of Kannon. Admission is
¥200, including a lit incense stick to place in front
of the shrine.
- Yasaka Shrine at the eastern end of Shijo-dori,
at the edge of Gion, is the shrine responsible for Kyoto's
main festival - the Gion Matsuri, which takes place
in July. The shrine is small in comparison with many
in Kyoto, but it boasts an impressive display of lanterns.
Admission is free. Nearest bus stop: Gion.
- Maruyama Park is the main center for cherry blossom
viewing in Kyoto, and can get extremely crowded at that
time of year. The park's star attraction is a weeping
cherry tree (shidarezakura). Main entrance
to the park is through Yasaka Shrine. Admission is free.
- Nanzenji, with its distinctive two-storey entrance
gate (sanmon) and aqueduct, is another popular
temple in Kyoto, but its larger size means that it doesn't
seem as crowded as many of the others. Walking around
the temple complex and along the aqueduct is free, but
there are three regions of Nanzenji that you can pay
to enter.
- Nanzen-in Zen Temple - a small, but relaxing temple
and moss garden behind the aqueduct, dating back to
the 13th century, charges ¥300 for admission, and is
probably only worth it if you have a particular interest
in Zen Buddhism.
- Hojo - the abbot's quarters, is a more interesting
building, with a small raked gravel garden and some
impressive paintings on the sliding doors of the
buildings.
- The Philosopher's Walk (哲学の道 tetsugaku-no-michi)
is the name given to a 2km-long path through north-eastern
Kyoto, along which a philosophy professor, Kitaro Nishida,
used to frequently walk. It is a surprisingly pleasant
and relaxing walk even today, though you will undoubtedly
share it with more tourists than Kitaro did. The walk
runs south from Ginkakuji beside an aqueduct to Nyakuoji
Shrine, many guidebooks suggest that the walk continues
further south from there to Nanzenji, but this southerly
section of the walk is less consistently signposted.
The route passes several temples en route,
notably Honen-in, a beautiful secluded temple with a
thatched gate. Suggested route for the walk and surrounding
area.
- Ginkakuji (銀閣寺, the Silver Pavilion) is at the northern
end of the Philosopher's Walk. Much like its golden
counterpart at Kinkakuji, the Silver Pavilion is often
choked with tourists, shuffling past a scrupulously-maintained
dry landscape Zen garden and the surrounding moss garden,
before posing for pictures in front of the Pavilion
across a pond. Unlike its counterpart, however,
the Silver Pavilion was never actually covered in silver;
only the name had been applied before the plans fell
apart.
- Mt. Daimonji isn't much more than a hill, but it
provides a breathtaking (and perhaps the best) view
of the city. So if you're in the mood for a hike, this
is a pleasant forest walk, taking a little less than
an hour. At the summit, you can take a breather and
check out the views over the city, or climb the steps
and keep hiking through the forest at the top for hours,
as long as you don't mind winding up far away from where
you started. There's a clearly marked path up the mountain
that begins near Ginkakuji. To reach the trailhead,
turn left at the gates of Ginkakuji, and, before the
stone torii (the iconic gate found throughout Japan),
turn right and follow the path upwards. You'll soon
be greeted with a map of the hill. If you don't know
Japanese, don't worry; just follow everyone up the very-obvious
path to the summit.
- Sanjusangen-do is definitely worth a visit. It was
founded in 1164 and became famous for its 1001 beautiful
wooden and gold-leaf covered statues of Kannon, goddess
of mercy, housed in thirty-three bays in the main hall.
- Kyoto National Museum is near Sanjusangen-do, and
has a large collection of ancient Japanese sculpture,
ceramics, metalwork, painting, and other artifacts.
(It's quite similar to the Tokyo National Museum in
Tokyo/Ueno.) The Museum building is fairly grand, but
the statue of Rodin's The Thinker out front
is a bit out of place, as there's no Western art inside.
It's seven minutes east of Shichijo Keihan.
- Fushimi Inari Shrine (伏見稲荷大社 Fushimi-Inari-taisha).
Another of Kyoto's often-overlooked jewels, about twenty-minutes
to the south of Kyoto. Dedicated to Inari, the Japanese
fox goddess, Fushimi-Inari-taisha is the head shrine
(taisha) for 40,000 Inari shrines across Japan.
Stretching 230 meters up the hill behind it are hundreds
of bright red torii (gates). A visitor could
easily spend several hours walking up the hillside,
taking in the beautiful views of the city of Kyoto and
walking through the torii, which appear luminescent
in the late afternoon sun. Countless stone foxes, also
referred to as Inari, are also dotted along the path.
Approaching the shrine, local delicacies are sold at
the roadside, including barbecued sparrow and inari-sushi
(sweetened sushi rice wrapped in fried tofu), which is said
to be the favorite food of the fox. Watch your fingers as
you go - the fox spirits are said to be able to possess
people by slipping through their fingernails. From the city
center, take the Keihan line to the Fushimi Inari station,
and the foxes will point you in the right direction. Be
warned, the shrine is located close to Fushimi Inari
and Inari stations, but is nowhere near Fushimi
station! You can also take the JR Nara line from Kyoto station
to Inari station, which exits immediately opposite the entrance
to the shrine. When you are done walking the entire path,
you have to walk through residential streets to get back
to the train station; if you get lost, listening for and
walking toward the sound of the trains will help guide you
there.
- Fushimi Castle was a favorite of Toyotomi Hideyoshi.
The original was dismantled in 1623, but a 1964 reconstruction
went up in its memory with a small museum and gold-lined
tea room.
- Tofuku-ji, to get there, gets off on the way to
Fushimi-inari shrine at Tofuku-ji station. Large temple
complex with many small and beautiful gardens nearby.
Famous for its garden, especially in the fall when the
leaves turn into all shades from green to red. Not on
the top-list of most of western tourists, so especially
worth visiting during fall.
- Video game giant Nintendo has its world headquarters
in southern Kyoto. Sad to say, tours are not offered,
and visitors are unlikely even to make it into the lobby;
the best you'll be able to do is pose for a photo with
the company logo on the plaza in front of the otherwise
anonymous building.
Things to do:
A highly-recommended walking tour is the "Walk in Kyoto,
Talk in English" tour. The tour is given by Hajime Hirooka,
better known to the tourists as Johnny Hillwalker. During
the five-hour English-speaking tour, Hillwalker shows tourists
a large Buddhist temple, a few Shinto shrines, and workshops
in the back alleys of the city. The tour operates rain or
shine on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays between March and
November, excluding public holidays. Departure time is 10:15
AM sharp outside the main (north) entrance of Kyoto station.
See Johnnie's Kyoto Walking for more information.